Wednesday, September 3, 2008

An Official volunteer, officially at site, at last




I find it much more difficult to journal when I am content. Manic moments and low momements lend much more inspiration to my writing. I hate to post a list of the activities I have been up to over the past week, but as I have fallen out of the habit of blogging and people are curious about my goings on (at least I hope they are), I am afraid this is what it must come to. Please pardon this post..I will try to do better.

I have settled in to a nice little life here in La Grama. The food is amazing and it looks like I will be plumping up right smart quick. While the days are tranquilo and slower paced, I rarely find myself unoccupied. Already I have taught ballet classes; met with the mayor; met the teachers in the kindergarten/elementary school/high school, learned how to make yogurt, cheese and a number of other delicious recipes; contracted a guitar teacher; gone hiking; been ill; bought my own pair of llanques---- (Small tangent: Llanques are sandles made out of tires that all the campesinos wear. they last forever. There is a saying in Peru that someone is more Peruvian than the potato. Pretty soon, I hope to be more Peruana than the papa. All that is lacking is a campesino hat, the fact that I am about two feet taller than everyone else here, the fact that my skin is several shades lighter than everyone elses, and the fact that I will probably always speak Spanish with a terrible gringo accent. Details, just Details I say); -----bought an osino to cut alfalfa in the chacra; found two people to teach me ceramics; tutored the treasurere at the Municipality in English; and just been totally happy.

This past weekend James and Jon, other local Peru 11 volunteers visited my site to accompany my family and I on a 7 hour hike along the river. What started out as a lovely, flat-terrain stroll fast turned into something totally different. The river proved to be a fastidious guide--at times it overtook the embankment, forcing us to leap from stone to stone. Later on in the journey leaping was no longer an option. This meant we had to trek up the embankment and bushwhack through thorny brush. At one point we even had to climb a partially fallen tree to reach higher ground. Whats more, on two occasions we had to fjord the river. This required that I remove my shoes and cautiously make my way to the other side. I think I may have broken my toe on the final crossing, because the current made it very difficult to see which of the slippery rocks I was stepping on and I jammed my foot several times into the stony riverbed. To say the least, there were many dead ends, many thorns in my side (literally), much huffing and puffing, and many soaked clothes, only to emerge at our glorious destination: the piedra caballera (or the lady rock).

In essence, the piedra caballera is a big rock on the the shore of the river. Besides being large, there is nothing extraordinary about the rock. It does not even resemble the shape of a lady. Nevertheless we enjoyed a lovely picnic lunch of lentil burgers and watermelon while the wind whipped sand at our faces and lent texture to our food. I took a siesta on a flat rock in the river, which was a terrible mistake, being that the Peruvian sun is fierce.

The return hike home was not quite so adventurous as the trek to the Piedra Caballera. It was a bit tamer, a bit less strenuous. Because I was very dehydrated and my skin was starting to crisp up, however, the hike was not so enjoyable or leisurely.

When we arrived back in La Grama, we were thorougly exhausted and covered in sweat, sand, and thorns. I broke out in a fever just for the sake of making the day a bit more exciting. Here is where my story gets a bit more interesting. My host mom is a strong believer in natural cures and wanted to break the fever. She came into my room with a bowl of water and vinegar and rubbed it all over my arms and legs. Then she individually wrapped up all my apendages like a mummy so that I couldnt move. She said she would wait 15 minutes and repeat this sequence 3 more times. If the fever didnt break after the third round, she would have to consort to graver measures: rubbing my 9-year-old brothers urine all over my body. I had the option of skipping straight to the pee, but I opted not to start out with the hard stuff. Fortunately for me, my fever had been reduced to my host moms satisfaction by the third round of the mummy routine and I evaded the tinkle treatment. What a day!

photos are from the hike.

Thursday, August 21, 2008

Last Day as an Aspirante

Tomorrow around 3 in the afternoon I will swear in and become an official Peace Corps volunteer. A dream a long time in the making will finally be actualized. While I´m admittedly terrified to ship off to site and begin a new life unlike I´ve ever experienced, I am also ECSTATIC. Training has taken me as far as it will; now it is time to become more independent, more self sufficient, more brave than i have ever had to be. I´m ready. There will most certainly be bumps along the road and moments when I question what I´m doing here, but if all fails, I have to admit that I´m pretty stinkin proud to have given it a shot. In just three months I have adjusted to a simpler, more austere way of life. I have immersed myself in a new culture. I have achieved a quasi-advanced level of Spanish. I have learned to depend on myself. I have made new and lasting friendships with both gringos and Peruvians alike. Most importantly, I have been really happy (But I don´t mean to brag). I know this is where I am supposed to be right now at this point in my life.

Tonight is my last night with my host family in Yanacoto. It is bittersweet. I am eager to move on despite the beautiful times I shared with Jesusa and Alfredo. I will miss them dearly but take comfort in knowing that my next family is equally amazing and that I will always be welcomed back. Thanks for all the mail, emails and encouraging words. I appreciate your support.

Friday, August 15, 2008

The Grass is Actually Greener on My Side

How do I love my site? Let me count the ways.
1. It is in a valley: This means hot but not scorching weather all year long.

2. It is very green. Everything is pristine. We have a beautiful river and all around are fruit trees abounding with mango, papaya, platano, etc.

3. Life is very simple and slow paced. This suits me. During the three days of visiting La Grama everything was tranquilo. Every night at sunset (a sunset like I´ve never seen before) I went to the chacra (or field) to chop alfalfa for our guinea pigs. On my second day, I enjoyed a picnic lunch with my host family under a mango tree before skipping stones at the river. After, I painted some of those river stones with my host brother. We had no appointments, no schedule. It was wonderful.

4. The food. As mentioned in number 2, the valley is teeming with fresh fruits and vegetables. We also have a lot of cows which makes for great dairy products. My family has 3 of its own cows (yes, I did try my hand at milking them. I´d say I´m still a novice but poco a poco). My host mom makes and sells homemade yogurt, cheese, ice cream, and cakes. What´s more, the last volunteer who was at my site three years ago trained my host mom in vegetarian cooking. She knows how to make hummus, lentil burgers, salads, and pretty much anything you can imagine. I think I will be eating better than I did in the States. As you can imagine, this makes me pretty miserable. Ha!

5. My family!! I will be living with a host mom, Naty, and her 9 year old son, Diego. They are very sweet, educated, and generous. When I arrived they greeted me with hand-picked flowers from their garden and a huge hug. I cannot even begin to describe how attentive, generous and
caring they were to me during site visit. Naty gave me a new pair of slippers so I would be comfortable in the house, Diego gave me some of his glow in the dark pokemon toys so I wouldn´t be afraid of the dark, they went out their way to cook foods I would like, etc. Also, Diego is a little entrepreneur. He makes and sells jewelry and was able to buy his own cell phone with the money he earned. I was the lucky recipient of a beautiful bracelet and two pairs of earrings. I think we will be very happy together.

I cannot believe there is just one week of training to go. Next Friday I will swear in and become an official volunteer. The following day I will move to site. Everything is moving very fast, and while it can be overwhelming, I am very excited for what´s to come. My life will slow down drastically when I get to site, so hopefully I can be better about blogging.

Friday, August 1, 2008

dun dun dun


I have been absolutely terrible about posting. I have much to catch everyone up on but big news takes precedence. Today I found out my site for the next two years.....La Grama, Cajamarca!!! The town is situated in a valley (which makes for warm weather during the day) and boasts a population of 1500 people. The last volunteer, who left three years ago and who is often referred to as ¨Patty Peace Corps¨--no joke--, started up organic farming projects, yoga, etc and so as you can imagine I am more than thrilled. There is a
farmers market every weekend, and oh yeah my host mom knows how to make veggie burgers!! This might mean that I can get through my two years consuming more than just potatoes and guinea pig. I am ecstatic. Still not sure what the bathroom and electricity situation will be like but I will be leaving Sunday for a week long visit to meet my future host family and community partners.

More news to come (photo is from my hiking trip to markahuasi with zach. we got up to watch the sunrise)

Thursday, July 31, 2008





Sorry I haven't updated in a while.  New post in the works...  Here are some pictures to enjoy in the meantime!

Monday, July 7, 2008

A Down Moment

I´m lonely today. It´s really hard to make new friends when you´re being pulled in a million different directions by host families, training, other aspirantes, and connections back home. . . I guess I´m still trying to find that right balance. Also, some killer insects ate my ankle and now it is swollen, purple, and ugly. I´m sure in ten minutes my mood will turn but for now it´s good to vent.

Missing everyone back home like crazy :)

Patty

Lima the Horrible: Some Grievances



Sebastian Salazar once described his native city as “Lima the Horrible.” Herman Melville cited Lima as the “saddest city on earth.” I’m afraid I also detest Lima. The past three Saturdays I have traveled to Peru’s capital, and returned home exhausted, cold, and miserable.

Despite its elegant Spanish colonial architecture, its rich history, culture, and sophistication, I cannot bring myself to conjure up warm feelings for the metropolis. Among the graceful churches, balconies, and palaces one may find Kentucky Fried Chicken, Dunkin Donuts, Pizza Hut, McDonalds and any number of gastronomic “treasures” that we both cherish and abhor in the United States. When walking around the city, I constantly feel like I’m going to be robbed—if not by the pickpockets that skulk around the Plaza de Armas, then by the temptation of a 14 soles cup of coffee at Starbucks where many of the other aspirantes have taken distinct pleasure in purchasing some java goodness. Additionally, Lima is currently experiencing winter, which translates to chilly, foggy, and gray days. When one arrives in Lima, they immediately become enshrouded in a misty dullness that is so far from cheery that it’s no wonder nobody smiles. To top off all this misery, one is faced with the daunting task of returning home, where there are two main options: taxi or combi. The taxi offers a quicker, more comfortable option. However, one must find a driver willing to drive to Chaclacayo, negotiate the price of the journey, and make sure the car has proper markings before getting into the vehicle. While this might not seem so bad, it is not easy. I have heard horror stories of taxi drivers robbing their passengers or driving to remote locations where others have held up the passengers. What’s more, the simple crime of being a gringo makes the negotiation process exponentially more difficult. The first time a group of us attempted it, we were told the trip to Chaclacayo would cost 80 soles (it should be between 25 and 35). Thus, I am not too fond of the taxi option. To take the combi, one has only to climb on and pay 2.5 soles...yes, it seems easy, but please read on. The trip takes just under two hours to get to Chaclacayo, possibly standing the whole way. The combis are jammed so tight with people that the risk of being robbed is just as great, only it will most likely be less overt—think artful dodger: better than having a gun rammed into your temple, but either way you lose your cell phone, wallet and ipod. One becomes intimately acquainted with the body odors and curves of those pressed up against them, and as the vehicle comes to a screeching halt to squeeze more passengers on, it becomes necessary multitask like one has never multitasked before: suck in your stomach to make two more inches of space for people, protect your backpack under your right armpit, clench the railing with your left hand (this can take a great deal of strength, particularly if you are toward the front of the combi, because everyone else is launched into you and in most instances the rails are remarkably greasy), remain alert/keep your eyes darting in every direction, and pray that those who are breathing down your neck and grasping the same railings are not passing on some funky disease. Finally, taking the combi does not ensure that you will reach your destination. On my first trip home from Lima, the driver lost his license half way through the journey and everyone had to get off the vehicle and find another combi home. I loathe making the trip to Lima.